Posted by tubagoo on July 03, 2000 at 09:02:41:
In Reply to: Rotary Valve Oils? posted by Sterling on July 02, 2000 at 21:41:05:
On my r valves, I use dillon rotor oil on the inside, especially on the circular edge on the flat sides of the valves and on the spindles. Then i thin it just a bit on the curved surface with some al cass.
Almost as important as the oil is the other maintenance of the valve. Get yourself and rawhide mallet (avail. at brass and wood wind i think or steal a rawhide chime mallet from some evil percussionist), and a screw driver and, if you need to remove a spring, maybe some needle nose plyers with no teeth (smooth surfaces on the inside). Be bold and CAREFULLY take apart those bad boys and give them a cleaning. I use a solution of 50% vinegar/water on the valves and casings, and rinse all the surfaces when I am done.
I admit that I tend to not brush my teeth after every cup of coffee on the gig, and so every couple of months I take the valves out one at at time and clean it and re-install it, and then move on to the next valve. A little rotor Oil on the outside of the spindle and the springs, and I'm ready to go.
If you still have some clicking, sometime a loose screw is the problem, or a couple more taps to tighten the valve in the casing.
I started doing my own maintainance a few years ago, and I have a greater appreciation for my horns, and I am not nearly as abusive. My best advice (to those who decide to take instrument maintenance into your own hands) is work on a low surface, and move SLOWLY and do one valve at a time. I put a couple of towels down on my floor If I drop a part, it doesnt fall very far, and it doesnt roll under the couch. I stopped doing valve work on my work shop table after one incident where I had a piston fall off the table, and smack dab on the concrete floor, missing the rubber mat at my feet. That cost me a new valve.